Welcome

By DAILY MAIL REPORTER

Hanging around: Three tents are suspended off a 4,000ft vertical cliff in the Arctic as climbers get some much needed sleep


For many people, a camping trip is enough to get them sweating before they've even put up a tent pole.

But for these daredevil explorers, scaling cliffs and pitching tents at the height of more than 300 double decker buses is just a normal day at the office.

Hanging precariously in tents off a 4,000ft shear cliff face, these climbers are chasing the most dangerous big wall climbs ever attempted.


Don't look down: A climber peaks out of his tent high up on Great Sail Peak, on Canada's Baffin Island


As these stunning images show, the climbs can last for weeks and the explorers must set up tents on the edge of monstrous cliff faces to grab some much needed rest.

They were taken by adventure photographer Gordon Wiltsie, 57, who risks his own life to capture thrill-seeking moments.

He said: 'During this climb it was the Arctic spring so melting snow on both the summit and a ledge midway up the cliff constantly sent rocks and chunks of ice flying down.

'One the size of a car even came crashing down around us. Several times I came within inches of being hit which almost certainly would have been fatal.

'Falling objects are constantly on your mind and if you look carefully at the picture of the hanging tents, or Portaledges, you can see the camp was below an overhang for shelter.


Home comforts: Jon Catto, Greg Child and Mark Synnott set up their Portaledge camp site, complete with baggage, at 4,000ft


'Camping in the Portaledges is a lot less scary and dangerous than it is climbing outside of them. They're pretty comfortable and you don't actually see the drop below.

'I find it similar to sleeping into a regular tent. You're always harnessed into a separate anchor from the tent so I felt quite safe - unless I had to lean out to get food or supplies from our haul bags hanging outside.'

The amazing collection is part of a brand new summer-long exhibit of work by Mr Wiltsie at the famous Mountain Light Gallery in California, U.S.

The exhibition features an array of stunning images from climbs over the past decade including the first ascent of Great Sail Peak - an overhanging granite wall on Canada's Baffin Island.



Looking for the perfect spot: The climbers have to pitch their tents to get much-needed rest during big ascents

source: dailymail

By DAILY MAIL REPORTER

High life: Visitors to the new EdgeWalk experience will have unparalleled views of Toronto


Toronto's CN Tower is a test for even the most extreme adrenaline junkies.

But budding dare devils now face a new challenge, as the tower's operators plan to let people walk hands-free around the outside of the 116 story structure - held in place by only a cable.

For just $175, thrill-seekers can stroll around the top of Toronto’s famous CN Tower with no guard-rail and just a 5ft (1.5m) wide see-through ledge underneath.


Exciting: The entire experience will last about 90 minutes, with the walk itself running 20 to 30 minutes


At 1,167ft (356m) above the ground, the EdgeWalk will reward the brave with some breathtaking open-air views of Canada’s largest city, Lake Ontario and Buffalo, NY.

The first attraction of its kind in North America, EdgeWalk claims to be the world’s highest full circle hands-free walk at 116 stories above the ground.

‘We're extremely proud of the records the CN Tower has held throughout the years, including our strong safety record,’ said Jack Robinson, CN Tower's chief operating officer.

‘Our facilities and engineering team supervised the EdgeWalk project design and build to ensure that it is both exciting and safe.’

The attraction surpasses the Sky Tower walk in Auckland, New Zealand, at 629ft (192m) high and the Macau Tower Skywalk at 764ft (233m) above the ground.

EdgeWalk is set to open August 1 and advance ticket sales begin in June.


CN Tower Toronto


source: dailymail

By JED NOVICK

Greek godliness: Ithaca - and the fishing village of Kioni - is one of the Ionian's quietest outposts


Like all the best ideas, it was simple and brilliant. We wanted a holiday that would tap into our adventurer spirit and keep the children entertained - a holiday that would be about more than just eating and drinking while we moaned about the kids doing nothing except eating and drinking.

Then came the lightbulb moment: we persuaded our 15-year-old daughter, Ellie, to take Classics GCSE. 'It's just great stories. You'll love it,' we said, and when she came home one day enthusing about Homer's Odyssey, an idea for the perfect family holiday began to form.


All aboard: Ellie (left) and Loulou await the start of their voyage into Odysseus's world


We'd make it real. Before having children, my wife and I had been Odyssean travellers, finding our way across the world, bumping into life's challenges and negotiating gods and monsters along the way. A Homeric holiday might bring out the hero in us all. We'd fly to Athens and make our way to Ithaca, home of Odysseus. It would be an epic voyage where we'd face our own challenges, see off our own cyclops, resist the sirens - and if any suitors came looking for my girls...

Unlike Odysseus, who had ten years to get to Ithaca, we had only ten days, and so we set ourselves one challenge each. Ellie would have to conquer her fear of the sea after too many viewings of Jaws. Loulou, 11, would find the rite of passage that would transform her from primary school kid to a secondary school pupil in September.


Searching for home: A statue of Odysseus in the town of Stavros marks Ithaca as his 'home island'

We also had the challenge that all one-time travellers who are now family people have: finding uncharted terrain in a world packaged into a tourist's dream while keeping the girls happy.

Like all epic voyages, the first step was the hardest - three hours spent on a budget flight felt longer than Odysseus's seven years of bondage on Calypso's island.

After that, we didn't take the easy path. The adventurer's spirit compelled us to take the more 'interesting' route: we'd drive across the Bay of Corinth towards the Ionian island of Lefkas. Still, it was only a six-hour journey.

Travel Facts
Expedia (0871 226 0808, www.expedia.co.uk) offers return flights with easyJet from Gatwick to Athens and ten days' car hire from £307. Wildwind (0844 499 2898, www.wildwind.co.uk) offers sailing packages from £649pp, including flights and tuition. A house sleeping four at Levendi's Estate, Ithaca, costs £4,400 per week with discounts in May. Visit www.levendisestate.com.

source: dailymail

By JED NOVICK

Greek godliness: Ithaca - and the fishing village of Kioni - is one of the Ionian's quietest outposts


Like all the best ideas, it was simple and brilliant. We wanted a holiday that would tap into our adventurer spirit and keep the children entertained - a holiday that would be about more than just eating and drinking while we moaned about the kids doing nothing except eating and drinking.

Then came the lightbulb moment: we persuaded our 15-year-old daughter, Ellie, to take Classics GCSE. 'It's just great stories. You'll love it,' we said, and when she came home one day enthusing about Homer's Odyssey, an idea for the perfect family holiday began to form.


All aboard: Ellie (left) and Loulou await the start of their voyage into Odysseus's world


We'd make it real. Before having children, my wife and I had been Odyssean travellers, finding our way across the world, bumping into life's challenges and negotiating gods and monsters along the way. A Homeric holiday might bring out the hero in us all. We'd fly to Athens and make our way to Ithaca, home of Odysseus. It would be an epic voyage where we'd face our own challenges, see off our own cyclops, resist the sirens - and if any suitors came looking for my girls...

Unlike Odysseus, who had ten years to get to Ithaca, we had only ten days, and so we set ourselves one challenge each. Ellie would have to conquer her fear of the sea after too many viewings of Jaws. Loulou, 11, would find the rite of passage that would transform her from primary school kid to a secondary school pupil in September.


Searching for home: A statue of Odysseus in the town of Stavros marks Ithaca as his 'home island'

We also had the challenge that all one-time travellers who are now family people have: finding uncharted terrain in a world packaged into a tourist's dream while keeping the girls happy.

Like all epic voyages, the first step was the hardest - three hours spent on a budget flight felt longer than Odysseus's seven years of bondage on Calypso's island.

After that, we didn't take the easy path. The adventurer's spirit compelled us to take the more 'interesting' route: we'd drive across the Bay of Corinth towards the Ionian island of Lefkas. Still, it was only a six-hour journey.

Travel Facts
Expedia (0871 226 0808, www.expedia.co.uk) offers return flights with easyJet from Gatwick to Athens and ten days' car hire from £307. Wildwind (0844 499 2898, www.wildwind.co.uk) offers sailing packages from £649pp, including flights and tuition. A house sleeping four at Levendi's Estate, Ithaca, costs £4,400 per week with discounts in May. Visit www.levendisestate.com.

source: dailymail

By PHIL BOUCHER

Teeing off: Europe has a lot to offer when it comes to golf courses


Sensational scenery, wicked bunkers and thrilling off-course action. Follow our guide to Europe's top golf resorts...

Tenerife - Abama Resort
There's more to Tenerife than sunburnt noses and an English fry-up. The west side of the island is a tranquil haven of volcanic cliffs and tropical foliage, making it the ideal place to swing your clubs enveloped by waterfalls, white sand bunkers and spectacular views of the island of La Gomera.

In this beauty you can indulge in the pools and sandy beach of the Abama resort.
Along with a high-class spa and watersports, there's a daily round of treasure hunts, beach parties and movie nights for the under-12s.

The challenge: Thread your ball up the steeply rising par 5 10th hole, which has a series of ball-hungry lakes on the left.

Details: Seven nights' half board cost from £975pp, including flights and transfers. Golf extra. Travelbeam Luxury Hotels, 0845 845 0145, www.travelbeam.co.uk.

Spain - La Manga
It's best known as a summer centre for Premier League footballers at the La Manga Club. But with three palm-filled courses snaking through ravines, water hazards and Spanish countryside, golfers are not hard done by.

It is close to 26 miles of beaches on the Costa Calida, and the area is crammed with quaint destinations such as the old spa town of Los Alcazares, plus the grander spectacle of the museums, cathedrals and Moorish fortifications of Cartagena and Murcia.

The challenge: Survive the enormously long fairways and fiendishly placed bunkers of the PGA-standard South Course.

Details: Stay at the Las Lomas Village Apartments from £273pp for four nights including breakfast, a daily round of golf or other selected activities; 00 34 968 1755 77, www.lamangaclub.com. Monarch flies from London to Alicante return from £62; www.monarch.co.uk.

Sardinia - Is Molas
Savour 27 holes of meandering, parkland golf on the flower-filled hills of Sulcis. Or gorge on fresh seafood and Sardinian bread on a creative cooking course and work it off later doing watersports on the private beach.

Venture farther to the coves, taverns and white sand dunes of Nora and Porto d'Agumu, which complement the Phoenician ruins, spanish watchtowers and a clifftop roman amphitheatre.

The challenge: Avoid the tree in the middle of the 5th fairway, then carry your ball over a concealed stream to reach an elevated green and hole out for a par 4.

Details: Four rounds of golf, from £449pp. BA flies from London to Cagliari from £142 return, 0844 493 0787, www.ba.com.


Stunning Sardinia: You don't have to be a celebrity to enjoy the Is Molas course


Italy - Riva dei Tessali
Southern Italy's pine forests, olive groves and citrus plantations are home to two distinctly different courses in the heart of Apulia.

The surrounding region is rich with Greco- roman remains, conical Trulli houses and the troglodyte cave dwellings at Matera. The nearby port of Taranto provides a gilt-edged excuse to try the local Primitivo wines.

Failing that, simply cycle to a deserted tree-fringed beach and do as little as possible.

The challenge: Adapt your game to the varied tests offered by the woodland riva dei Tessali and the scottish-style links of Metaponto.

Details: Seven nights' full board with seven rounds of golf on Riva dei Tessali and Metaponto. Airport transfers from £645pp (£545 for nongolfers ). Golf Par excellence, 01737 211 818, www.golfparexcellence.com. BA flies from London to Bari from £161.

Cyprus - Aphrodite Hills
Aphrodite, goddess of love, is said to have emerged from the waves here, though the golf course is far from amorous: a series of knee-trembling drives across deep, rocky gorges can easily ruin anyone's scorecard.

But if you're up for passion, the resort's spa, dramatic coastal views and cliff-top trails can't fail to make you feel romanced.

Carefully organised children's activities should keep adults free from interruptions, too.

The challenge: Make it across a 142-yard gorge and reach the green at the par 3 7th hole.

Details: Seven nights' half board, four rounds of golf, and flights, costs from £699pp, with return flight to Paphos. supertravel Golf, 0207 459 2984, www.supertravel.co.uk.


Room with a view: The accommodation is just as good as the gold at Aphrodite Hills


Turkey - Cornelia Resort
Citrus - packed valleys, turquoise seas, ancient amphitheatres and age-defying marble columns of Olympos, Perge, Side and Myra makes the Turkish Riviera particularly enticing.

That's before you get down to the nitty-gritty of 27 Nick Faldo-designed holes. There's also a staffed children's area and an impressive spa, offering a range of tantalising therapies.

The challenge: Drive over the trees and onto the green of the short par 47th hole (aptly named 'Faldo's Choice'), which is designed to make you choose between laying up or going for broke.

Details: Turkish Golf, 020 7923 3230, www.turkishgolf.com, has seven nights all-inclusive at the 5-starplus diamond Golf resort and spa from £795pp, including three rounds of golf, transfers and return flights.

Portugal - Praia del Rey
Get into the swing on 18 holes that flow through fragrant pines and wild sand dunes, offering a true test of both your parkland and links skills. other activities range from quad biking to paintball.

If you fancy an more idle ramble, try a local vineyard or farmer's market and dip into the history of the Silver Coast at the Unesco World Heritage town of Obidos.

Lisbon, with its shops, bars and nightlife, is just over an hour to the south.

The challenge: Tame the 623-yard, par 5 17th hole, one of the longest holes in Europe, beside foaming Atlantic seas.

Details: From £195pp for a four-night stay in a two-bedroom, self-catering apartment, including three rounds of golf. Flights from £150pp. Your Golf Travel, 0800 043 6644, www.yourgolftravel.com.


Cote d'Azur: Enjoy your golf with a side serving of style at Dolce Fregate

Greece - Porto Carrass
Olive-fringed fairways beside the twinkling Aegean and the pine forest of Mount Melitonas are a wonderful setting to test your skills.

Then rest your gaze on an ancient amphitheatre overlooking the crystal-clear Sithonia peninsula. With 26 miles of Blue Flag beach.

The thalassotherapy treatments at one of Greece's largest spas will iron out any aches, and wine tasting at the on-site vineyard and seafood in a cosy, local taverna will do the rest.

The challenge: Keep your ball dry on the Greek version of Augusta's 'Amen Corner' as four holes crisscross a series of lakes between the 11th and 14th.

Details: Amathus, 0844 770 8095, www.amathusholidays.co.uk, has seven nights' half board at the 5-star Hotel sithonia, for £ 499pp, including return BA flights from Gatwick. Golf is extra.

France - Dolce Fregate
Follow in the footsteps of writers Thomas Mann and Aldous Huxley and soak up the peaceful Cote d'Azur town of Bandol and neighbouring Bendor Island.

Seafood and rose wine will keep you happy and there's the opportunity to thwack a ball around the vineyards, pine trees and rock gardens of Provence, not to mention lap up the flawless views of the Bay of La Moutte.

The art galleries and museums of Marseille and Toulon are all within an hour's drive.

The challenge: Avoid the cascade of large ponds, palms and cypresses that line every inch of the menacing par 4 5th hole.

Details: www.golfbreaks.com offers seven nights' B&B and three rounds of golf from £725pp. easyJet flies to Marseille from £50 return, 0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com.


source: dailymail

By PHIL BOUCHER

Teeing off: Europe has a lot to offer when it comes to golf courses


Sensational scenery, wicked bunkers and thrilling off-course action. Follow our guide to Europe's top golf resorts...

Tenerife - Abama Resort
There's more to Tenerife than sunburnt noses and an English fry-up. The west side of the island is a tranquil haven of volcanic cliffs and tropical foliage, making it the ideal place to swing your clubs enveloped by waterfalls, white sand bunkers and spectacular views of the island of La Gomera.

In this beauty you can indulge in the pools and sandy beach of the Abama resort.
Along with a high-class spa and watersports, there's a daily round of treasure hunts, beach parties and movie nights for the under-12s.

The challenge: Thread your ball up the steeply rising par 5 10th hole, which has a series of ball-hungry lakes on the left.

Details: Seven nights' half board cost from £975pp, including flights and transfers. Golf extra. Travelbeam Luxury Hotels, 0845 845 0145, www.travelbeam.co.uk.

Spain - La Manga
It's best known as a summer centre for Premier League footballers at the La Manga Club. But with three palm-filled courses snaking through ravines, water hazards and Spanish countryside, golfers are not hard done by.

It is close to 26 miles of beaches on the Costa Calida, and the area is crammed with quaint destinations such as the old spa town of Los Alcazares, plus the grander spectacle of the museums, cathedrals and Moorish fortifications of Cartagena and Murcia.

The challenge: Survive the enormously long fairways and fiendishly placed bunkers of the PGA-standard South Course.

Details: Stay at the Las Lomas Village Apartments from £273pp for four nights including breakfast, a daily round of golf or other selected activities; 00 34 968 1755 77, www.lamangaclub.com. Monarch flies from London to Alicante return from £62; www.monarch.co.uk.

Sardinia - Is Molas
Savour 27 holes of meandering, parkland golf on the flower-filled hills of Sulcis. Or gorge on fresh seafood and Sardinian bread on a creative cooking course and work it off later doing watersports on the private beach.

Venture farther to the coves, taverns and white sand dunes of Nora and Porto d'Agumu, which complement the Phoenician ruins, spanish watchtowers and a clifftop roman amphitheatre.

The challenge: Avoid the tree in the middle of the 5th fairway, then carry your ball over a concealed stream to reach an elevated green and hole out for a par 4.

Details: Four rounds of golf, from £449pp. BA flies from London to Cagliari from £142 return, 0844 493 0787, www.ba.com.


Stunning Sardinia: You don't have to be a celebrity to enjoy the Is Molas course


Italy - Riva dei Tessali
Southern Italy's pine forests, olive groves and citrus plantations are home to two distinctly different courses in the heart of Apulia.

The surrounding region is rich with Greco- roman remains, conical Trulli houses and the troglodyte cave dwellings at Matera. The nearby port of Taranto provides a gilt-edged excuse to try the local Primitivo wines.

Failing that, simply cycle to a deserted tree-fringed beach and do as little as possible.

The challenge: Adapt your game to the varied tests offered by the woodland riva dei Tessali and the scottish-style links of Metaponto.

Details: Seven nights' full board with seven rounds of golf on Riva dei Tessali and Metaponto. Airport transfers from £645pp (£545 for nongolfers ). Golf Par excellence, 01737 211 818, www.golfparexcellence.com. BA flies from London to Bari from £161.

Cyprus - Aphrodite Hills
Aphrodite, goddess of love, is said to have emerged from the waves here, though the golf course is far from amorous: a series of knee-trembling drives across deep, rocky gorges can easily ruin anyone's scorecard.

But if you're up for passion, the resort's spa, dramatic coastal views and cliff-top trails can't fail to make you feel romanced.

Carefully organised children's activities should keep adults free from interruptions, too.

The challenge: Make it across a 142-yard gorge and reach the green at the par 3 7th hole.

Details: Seven nights' half board, four rounds of golf, and flights, costs from £699pp, with return flight to Paphos. supertravel Golf, 0207 459 2984, www.supertravel.co.uk.


Room with a view: The accommodation is just as good as the gold at Aphrodite Hills


Turkey - Cornelia Resort
Citrus - packed valleys, turquoise seas, ancient amphitheatres and age-defying marble columns of Olympos, Perge, Side and Myra makes the Turkish Riviera particularly enticing.

That's before you get down to the nitty-gritty of 27 Nick Faldo-designed holes. There's also a staffed children's area and an impressive spa, offering a range of tantalising therapies.

The challenge: Drive over the trees and onto the green of the short par 47th hole (aptly named 'Faldo's Choice'), which is designed to make you choose between laying up or going for broke.

Details: Turkish Golf, 020 7923 3230, www.turkishgolf.com, has seven nights all-inclusive at the 5-starplus diamond Golf resort and spa from £795pp, including three rounds of golf, transfers and return flights.

Portugal - Praia del Rey
Get into the swing on 18 holes that flow through fragrant pines and wild sand dunes, offering a true test of both your parkland and links skills. other activities range from quad biking to paintball.

If you fancy an more idle ramble, try a local vineyard or farmer's market and dip into the history of the Silver Coast at the Unesco World Heritage town of Obidos.

Lisbon, with its shops, bars and nightlife, is just over an hour to the south.

The challenge: Tame the 623-yard, par 5 17th hole, one of the longest holes in Europe, beside foaming Atlantic seas.

Details: From £195pp for a four-night stay in a two-bedroom, self-catering apartment, including three rounds of golf. Flights from £150pp. Your Golf Travel, 0800 043 6644, www.yourgolftravel.com.


Cote d'Azur: Enjoy your golf with a side serving of style at Dolce Fregate

Greece - Porto Carrass
Olive-fringed fairways beside the twinkling Aegean and the pine forest of Mount Melitonas are a wonderful setting to test your skills.

Then rest your gaze on an ancient amphitheatre overlooking the crystal-clear Sithonia peninsula. With 26 miles of Blue Flag beach.

The thalassotherapy treatments at one of Greece's largest spas will iron out any aches, and wine tasting at the on-site vineyard and seafood in a cosy, local taverna will do the rest.

The challenge: Keep your ball dry on the Greek version of Augusta's 'Amen Corner' as four holes crisscross a series of lakes between the 11th and 14th.

Details: Amathus, 0844 770 8095, www.amathusholidays.co.uk, has seven nights' half board at the 5-star Hotel sithonia, for £ 499pp, including return BA flights from Gatwick. Golf is extra.

France - Dolce Fregate
Follow in the footsteps of writers Thomas Mann and Aldous Huxley and soak up the peaceful Cote d'Azur town of Bandol and neighbouring Bendor Island.

Seafood and rose wine will keep you happy and there's the opportunity to thwack a ball around the vineyards, pine trees and rock gardens of Provence, not to mention lap up the flawless views of the Bay of La Moutte.

The art galleries and museums of Marseille and Toulon are all within an hour's drive.

The challenge: Avoid the cascade of large ponds, palms and cypresses that line every inch of the menacing par 4 5th hole.

Details: www.golfbreaks.com offers seven nights' B&B and three rounds of golf from £725pp. easyJet flies to Marseille from £50 return, 0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com.


source: dailymail

By CHRIS LAWRENCE

Paddle power: Chris Lawrence continues his battle against the Adriatic


The waves were getting higher. At times they lifted the front of the kayak so far that my legs seemed to take off, while the stern became submerged.

More than an hour into our expedition to the medieval walls of Ston, the Adriatic was determined to break our will. But we were driven forward by the prospect of the best seafood on the Dalmatian Coast - freshly-farmed mussels and oysters from the Peljesac Peninsula.

This was the fourth of a five-day kayaking tour of the Elaphite Islands - 13 sparsely populated Croatian islands, just a few miles west of Dubrovnik.

Our party of 12 had cruised from Sudurad Sipan to the beaches of Lopud and the bays of Kolocep. None of us were experts - the tour was tailored to our skills by a genial middle-aged couple called Nada and Branco, who met us each evening with our route for the following day and reappeared at the next campsite with our belongings and tents.

Their routes were pleasantly gentle - to begin with. They insisted we follow a guide, the enigmatic Djivo, for our first day. The young Croat, a grizzled thirty-something of few words but large biceps, taught us basic skills before sending us out on our own.

For two days we darted around the Kolocepski Kanal, a quiet passage of water between the mainland and the archipelago, before returning to the coast each night to camp.

It was an idyllic way to explore these pretty pockets. Kolocep is the busiest of these three inhabited islands, but still has only 150 inhabitants to fill its seven churches. Sipan and Lopud come alive when ferries from Dubrovnik dock, but when the tourists leave, only pot-bellied locals and noisy crickets remain.

Sights varied from the sublime to the ridiculous. A shoal of flying fish zipped past the front of the kayak and a naked snorkeller, who we passed near Kolocep. We often startled nudist sunbathers on secluded beaches.


101 reasons to go: The island of Sipan is one of the postcard gems of the Dalmatian Coast


After some serious paddling, we were looking forward to a day of rest on the beach at Slano on the coast - when Nada set us a challenge. She had two routes: one to explore the coves of Sipan, the second to reach Ston, 20 miles away. Her description of the walled, medieval town, modelled on Dubrovnik's causeways and alleys, was alluring. As was her insistence that nowhere on the coast could match the town's seafood farms.

My friend Matt, a rugby-playing doctor, and I accepted the challenge and took to a tandem kayak. Conditions quickly descended from choppy to downright rough as we pushed into a head wind and strained into each wave. After two hours, however, we heard the chirping of crickets as land approached.

Our paddles carved the water, which twirled away in rainbow curls. We rounded another headland past the small village of Broce and were met by the walls of Ston - the second largest in the world after the Great Wall of China. They were built by the city republic of Dubrovnik in the 14th century to defend the prized salt plains.

Ston itself is tiny compared with the magnitude of its defence. Tight alleys and courtyards imitate Dubrovnik but, after our difficult journey, it felt underwhelming - until we tasted the seafood.

Shaded under a canopy, we swallowed deliciously fresh mussels - a huge platter farmed less than two miles away and seasoned with chunks of garlic as big as my thumb. All delivered by a very pretty waitress.


Fenced in: The medieval walls of Ston still project a defensive majesty


We had just enough time (and energy) to scale the walls. Damaged by an earthquake in the Nineties they are under refurbishment, but the views need no improvement.

From the top we looked down over Ston, the valuable checkerboard of the salt plains and on a small red dot, shining like a boiled sweet in a pond. Our kayak was moored and waiting. We could only hope that the wind hadn't changed direction.


Travel Facts

A weeks kayaking, including seven nights accommodation, sea kayaking guide service, breakfast and three dinners, costs from £404pp (00 385 20 332 567, www.adriaadventure.hr).

easyJet flies from London to Dubrovnik return from £111 (0905 821 0905, www.easyjet.com).

source: dailymail

By CHRIS LAWRENCE

Paddle power: Chris Lawrence continues his battle against the Adriatic


The waves were getting higher. At times they lifted the front of the kayak so far that my legs seemed to take off, while the stern became submerged.

More than an hour into our expedition to the medieval walls of Ston, the Adriatic was determined to break our will. But we were driven forward by the prospect of the best seafood on the Dalmatian Coast - freshly-farmed mussels and oysters from the Peljesac Peninsula.

This was the fourth of a five-day kayaking tour of the Elaphite Islands - 13 sparsely populated Croatian islands, just a few miles west of Dubrovnik.

Our party of 12 had cruised from Sudurad Sipan to the beaches of Lopud and the bays of Kolocep. None of us were experts - the tour was tailored to our skills by a genial middle-aged couple called Nada and Branco, who met us each evening with our route for the following day and reappeared at the next campsite with our belongings and tents.

Their routes were pleasantly gentle - to begin with. They insisted we follow a guide, the enigmatic Djivo, for our first day. The young Croat, a grizzled thirty-something of few words but large biceps, taught us basic skills before sending us out on our own.

For two days we darted around the Kolocepski Kanal, a quiet passage of water between the mainland and the archipelago, before returning to the coast each night to camp.

It was an idyllic way to explore these pretty pockets. Kolocep is the busiest of these three inhabited islands, but still has only 150 inhabitants to fill its seven churches. Sipan and Lopud come alive when ferries from Dubrovnik dock, but when the tourists leave, only pot-bellied locals and noisy crickets remain.

Sights varied from the sublime to the ridiculous. A shoal of flying fish zipped past the front of the kayak and a naked snorkeller, who we passed near Kolocep. We often startled nudist sunbathers on secluded beaches.


101 reasons to go: The island of Sipan is one of the postcard gems of the Dalmatian Coast


After some serious paddling, we were looking forward to a day of rest on the beach at Slano on the coast - when Nada set us a challenge. She had two routes: one to explore the coves of Sipan, the second to reach Ston, 20 miles away. Her description of the walled, medieval town, modelled on Dubrovnik's causeways and alleys, was alluring. As was her insistence that nowhere on the coast could match the town's seafood farms.

My friend Matt, a rugby-playing doctor, and I accepted the challenge and took to a tandem kayak. Conditions quickly descended from choppy to downright rough as we pushed into a head wind and strained into each wave. After two hours, however, we heard the chirping of crickets as land approached.

Our paddles carved the water, which twirled away in rainbow curls. We rounded another headland past the small village of Broce and were met by the walls of Ston - the second largest in the world after the Great Wall of China. They were built by the city republic of Dubrovnik in the 14th century to defend the prized salt plains.

Ston itself is tiny compared with the magnitude of its defence. Tight alleys and courtyards imitate Dubrovnik but, after our difficult journey, it felt underwhelming - until we tasted the seafood.

Shaded under a canopy, we swallowed deliciously fresh mussels - a huge platter farmed less than two miles away and seasoned with chunks of garlic as big as my thumb. All delivered by a very pretty waitress.


Fenced in: The medieval walls of Ston still project a defensive majesty


We had just enough time (and energy) to scale the walls. Damaged by an earthquake in the Nineties they are under refurbishment, but the views need no improvement.

From the top we looked down over Ston, the valuable checkerboard of the salt plains and on a small red dot, shining like a boiled sweet in a pond. Our kayak was moored and waiting. We could only hope that the wind hadn't changed direction.


Travel Facts

A weeks kayaking, including seven nights accommodation, sea kayaking guide service, breakfast and three dinners, costs from £404pp (00 385 20 332 567, www.adriaadventure.hr).

easyJet flies from London to Dubrovnik return from £111 (0905 821 0905, www.easyjet.com).

source: dailymail

By EMILY PAYNE

Making tracks: Emily settles in to her first dog-sledding experience


Howling reaches fever pitch as the dogs sense lift-off. Nervously, I mount my sled.

Four gallant Alaskan huskies are strapped in up ahead. They are a cross between Siberian husky, pointer and greyhound, and they can reach speeds of 20km per hour.

Currently, they are yelping and leaping frantically, all wild eyes and wagging tails. I quietly hope that they will be more sedate once I let off the brake. As another howl comes from up the front, I realise that this is unlikely.


Paws for thought: Dogsledding Norway's dogs are an enthusiastic mix of husky, pointer and greyhound


I have never skied and the last time I moved rapidly through snow was as a child, sliding on a makeshift toboggan, before toppling off in front of my class. It is safe to say that I am not a natural-born athlete. And as for dogs, I have yet to go doe-eyed when presented with one. So why, I ask myself, am I doing this?

All around me, the landscape is a flat, sparse, white. I am in Rondablikk, on the edge of Norway’s first National Park, Rondane – a pristine expanse in the south-east of this long, winter-bound country. Its high mountain plateau, vast icy lakes and frosted meadows make it perfect for winter adventure. The snow is clean, and thick – a different beast to its inferior, sludgy equivalent in Britain – a gift from nature that is almost embraced. Certainly, the Norwegians find it as natural to ski as to walk. I’m hoping – but not expecting – that by the end of my trip, I will feel the same.


The white stuff: Rondablikk, in south-eastern Norway, offers endless terrain for dog-sledding


Our guides – Live Aasheim, a Norwegian dog-sled race champion, and her Scottish-born colleague Greg McColm – take no nonsense.

“This is not a McDonalds dog sledding trip,” Live says. “You will harness your own dogs and get involved with the whole process from start to finish. They will not hurt you, unless you hurt them.” Again, I wonder why, exactly, I am here.

There’s a hot stench of hound as we’re handed the harnesses. My team of dogs includes Sinatra, a striking white fellow with opal blue eyes. “We call him the son of the devil,” says Live. Greg tells me that I need to show these pooches who is boss. Silently, I think to myself that the dogs already know who the boss is. And it isn’t me. For starters, they don’t seem to know – or won’t acknowledge – the command for stop. Luckily, there is a plastic mat that can be thrown to the snow to slow them – or, as a last resort, a metal brake. Live is unconcerned. “I don’t have time to teach 40 dogs to respond to someone shouting ‘stop’,” she says.


Husky dog sledding in Norway


I usually cower from canines, preferring the indoorsy softness of cats. But for all the barking and howling, I soon realise that I am finding this particular set of dogs strangely endearing. Having to greet your team and coerce them into a harness is not easy. But the dogs have such varying personality: there are lazy ones, who lie on their backs when you so much as gesture towards them; wild, strong beasts who don’t take yes for an answer; loyal creatures eager to behave.

The tension builds as we prepare to leave. Hooting and screaming continues as each dog is attached to a sled. I am near the back of the group. Greg, the stern taskmaster is behind me. And then… we’re off. Immediately, as the sled in front lurches forward, my brain misplaces the instructions about braking and steering.

While the others whizz off stylishly, I keep my foot slightly on the brake, making my exit all stunted jolts. “Wheeeeee” I yell, unable to behave like anything but a small child. A burst into movement, and we push into the forest, winding through the trees. I try to anticipate when to brake and when to lean, so the sled won’t upturn.

The power in every limb of these creatures becomes clear as I lift my feet completely off the brake, and they pound the snow, pulling ever faster.


Crafty canines: Dog-sledding can offer an insight into truly wild terrain


“In Norway we have a lot of trolls,” she explains. “There are good trolls, and nasty trolls, and they come out at night. But the worst sort is the water trolls. They prey on tourists, pulling them through the snow to their underground lairs.”

She pauses for effect. But I am unfazed. After coming through my first attempts at dog-sledding and skiing unscathed, I fancy my chances against any troll.


Travel Facts

Exodus (0845 527 4364; www.exodus.co.uk) offers eight-day winter sports breaks in Rondablikk from £1,499 per person, including flights, transfers, most meals – and activities including cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and dog-sledding. Departures available in March and December.

Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) (0871 521 2772, www.flysas.co.uk) flies daily from Heathrow to Oslo for £225 return.

Dogsledding Norway (0047-41-853-733; www.dogsledding-norway.com) does half-day trips for 700 Norwegian Kroner (£78).

source: dailymail

By EMILY PAYNE

Making tracks: Emily settles in to her first dog-sledding experience


Howling reaches fever pitch as the dogs sense lift-off. Nervously, I mount my sled.

Four gallant Alaskan huskies are strapped in up ahead. They are a cross between Siberian husky, pointer and greyhound, and they can reach speeds of 20km per hour.

Currently, they are yelping and leaping frantically, all wild eyes and wagging tails. I quietly hope that they will be more sedate once I let off the brake. As another howl comes from up the front, I realise that this is unlikely.


Paws for thought: Dogsledding Norway's dogs are an enthusiastic mix of husky, pointer and greyhound


I have never skied and the last time I moved rapidly through snow was as a child, sliding on a makeshift toboggan, before toppling off in front of my class. It is safe to say that I am not a natural-born athlete. And as for dogs, I have yet to go doe-eyed when presented with one. So why, I ask myself, am I doing this?

All around me, the landscape is a flat, sparse, white. I am in Rondablikk, on the edge of Norway’s first National Park, Rondane – a pristine expanse in the south-east of this long, winter-bound country. Its high mountain plateau, vast icy lakes and frosted meadows make it perfect for winter adventure. The snow is clean, and thick – a different beast to its inferior, sludgy equivalent in Britain – a gift from nature that is almost embraced. Certainly, the Norwegians find it as natural to ski as to walk. I’m hoping – but not expecting – that by the end of my trip, I will feel the same.


The white stuff: Rondablikk, in south-eastern Norway, offers endless terrain for dog-sledding


Our guides – Live Aasheim, a Norwegian dog-sled race champion, and her Scottish-born colleague Greg McColm – take no nonsense.

“This is not a McDonalds dog sledding trip,” Live says. “You will harness your own dogs and get involved with the whole process from start to finish. They will not hurt you, unless you hurt them.” Again, I wonder why, exactly, I am here.

There’s a hot stench of hound as we’re handed the harnesses. My team of dogs includes Sinatra, a striking white fellow with opal blue eyes. “We call him the son of the devil,” says Live. Greg tells me that I need to show these pooches who is boss. Silently, I think to myself that the dogs already know who the boss is. And it isn’t me. For starters, they don’t seem to know – or won’t acknowledge – the command for stop. Luckily, there is a plastic mat that can be thrown to the snow to slow them – or, as a last resort, a metal brake. Live is unconcerned. “I don’t have time to teach 40 dogs to respond to someone shouting ‘stop’,” she says.


Husky dog sledding in Norway


I usually cower from canines, preferring the indoorsy softness of cats. But for all the barking and howling, I soon realise that I am finding this particular set of dogs strangely endearing. Having to greet your team and coerce them into a harness is not easy. But the dogs have such varying personality: there are lazy ones, who lie on their backs when you so much as gesture towards them; wild, strong beasts who don’t take yes for an answer; loyal creatures eager to behave.

The tension builds as we prepare to leave. Hooting and screaming continues as each dog is attached to a sled. I am near the back of the group. Greg, the stern taskmaster is behind me. And then… we’re off. Immediately, as the sled in front lurches forward, my brain misplaces the instructions about braking and steering.

While the others whizz off stylishly, I keep my foot slightly on the brake, making my exit all stunted jolts. “Wheeeeee” I yell, unable to behave like anything but a small child. A burst into movement, and we push into the forest, winding through the trees. I try to anticipate when to brake and when to lean, so the sled won’t upturn.

The power in every limb of these creatures becomes clear as I lift my feet completely off the brake, and they pound the snow, pulling ever faster.


Crafty canines: Dog-sledding can offer an insight into truly wild terrain


“In Norway we have a lot of trolls,” she explains. “There are good trolls, and nasty trolls, and they come out at night. But the worst sort is the water trolls. They prey on tourists, pulling them through the snow to their underground lairs.”

She pauses for effect. But I am unfazed. After coming through my first attempts at dog-sledding and skiing unscathed, I fancy my chances against any troll.


Travel Facts

Exodus (0845 527 4364; www.exodus.co.uk) offers eight-day winter sports breaks in Rondablikk from £1,499 per person, including flights, transfers, most meals – and activities including cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and dog-sledding. Departures available in March and December.

Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) (0871 521 2772, www.flysas.co.uk) flies daily from Heathrow to Oslo for £225 return.

Dogsledding Norway (0047-41-853-733; www.dogsledding-norway.com) does half-day trips for 700 Norwegian Kroner (£78).

source: dailymail

Rock star: Kynance Cove in Cornwall offers beautiful sandy beaches and dramatic cliff walks


The National Trust is trying to encourage more and more people to get outdoors whatever the weather this summer by unveiling its top 10 spots with great views.

Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire and Tennyson Downs on the Isle of Wight are two of the picturesque spots that make it in to the top ten of 'food with a view' sites.

The National Trust top picnic spots have views which range from rolling hills to mountains and coasts, gardens and historic buildings.

And to persuade people not to wait until the summer before packing up the picnic hamper and heading out for al fresco dining, the trust is producing a range of seasonal 'food on the go' recipes - including stews and soups for flasks.


Natural high: Box Hill boasts stunning views over the picturesque Surrey countryside


The efforts to encourage people to get into the great outdoors comes as a poll revealed that while more than nine out of 10 families said they loved eating outdoors, more than half were put off by unpredictable weather.

Other concerns voiced by parents were worries about wasps and insects, feeling restricted about where they were allowed to eat outdoors, finding it hard to create varied meals to eat outside and getting dirt and sand in their food.


Making a splash: The picnic areas in Fell Foot Park feature views of Lake Windermere and beyond


Fiona Reynolds, director general of the National Trust, said: 'Picnics are something we're well known for in this country, but we don't need to wait for the summer sun to arrive.

'Spring is finally here and we have our extra hour's daylight - it's a great time of year to head outdoors and enjoy food with a view.

'Spending more time outside is also the perfect way to refresh and re-energise both body and mind.'

The top 10 picnic spots chosen by the National Trust are:

Kynance Cove, Cornwall
Stourhead, Wiltshire
Box Hill, Surrey
Tennyson Downs, Isle of Wight
Dunwich Heath, Suffolk
Croome, Worcestershire
The Kymin, Monmouth
Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, North Yorkshire
Fell Foot, Cumbria
Florence Court, Northern Ireland


source: dailymail

Rock star: Kynance Cove in Cornwall offers beautiful sandy beaches and dramatic cliff walks


The National Trust is trying to encourage more and more people to get outdoors whatever the weather this summer by unveiling its top 10 spots with great views.

Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire and Tennyson Downs on the Isle of Wight are two of the picturesque spots that make it in to the top ten of 'food with a view' sites.

The National Trust top picnic spots have views which range from rolling hills to mountains and coasts, gardens and historic buildings.

And to persuade people not to wait until the summer before packing up the picnic hamper and heading out for al fresco dining, the trust is producing a range of seasonal 'food on the go' recipes - including stews and soups for flasks.


Natural high: Box Hill boasts stunning views over the picturesque Surrey countryside


The efforts to encourage people to get into the great outdoors comes as a poll revealed that while more than nine out of 10 families said they loved eating outdoors, more than half were put off by unpredictable weather.

Other concerns voiced by parents were worries about wasps and insects, feeling restricted about where they were allowed to eat outdoors, finding it hard to create varied meals to eat outside and getting dirt and sand in their food.


Making a splash: The picnic areas in Fell Foot Park feature views of Lake Windermere and beyond


Fiona Reynolds, director general of the National Trust, said: 'Picnics are something we're well known for in this country, but we don't need to wait for the summer sun to arrive.

'Spring is finally here and we have our extra hour's daylight - it's a great time of year to head outdoors and enjoy food with a view.

'Spending more time outside is also the perfect way to refresh and re-energise both body and mind.'

The top 10 picnic spots chosen by the National Trust are:

Kynance Cove, Cornwall
Stourhead, Wiltshire
Box Hill, Surrey
Tennyson Downs, Isle of Wight
Dunwich Heath, Suffolk
Croome, Worcestershire
The Kymin, Monmouth
Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, North Yorkshire
Fell Foot, Cumbria
Florence Court, Northern Ireland


source: dailymail

By CHRIS LEADBEATER

Higher and higher: The new hotel sits at the top of Hong Kong's ICC tower (in the foreground)


Many a hotel has used the prospect of a breathtaking view, whether of a pretty stretch of seafront, an urban skyline or towards rolling hills, to boost its appeal to would-be guests – only for said guests to find themselves staring at the kitchen bins or the fire escape.

But anyone checking in to the new Ritz-Carlton in Hong Kong is unlikely to be disappointed by the panorama visible from the window of their suite.

Because, occupying the top 17 floors of the city’s International Commerce Centre (ICC) skyscraper, this five-star, 312-room property is – as of its opening today – the highest hotel in the world.


Room with a view: Windows look out onto Victoria Harbour far below


Anyone wanting to stay here will need a head for heights. The tallest building in Hong Kong, the ICC rears to 484metres (1,588ft) – with the hotel beginning on the 102nd floor, at 425metres (1394ft).

Here, diners can gaze out across the field of neon below from a table at one of three restaurants – or opt for an even loftier perspective on the great Chinese city by taking a lift to the 118th floor, where the signature eatery Ozone awaits.

Those who like the feeling of floating on the lip of a precipice can also test their ability to withstand vertigo by visiting the hotel’s top-floor gym, where an infinity swimming pool offers what may well be an unnerving snapshot of Victoria Harbour, some 16,000ft below. Happily, the in-house spa, slotted two floors below, should soothe frayed spirits.


Different strokes: You may need a stern constitution to swim in the top-floor infinity pool


The hotel is able to offer such good views of the harbour because the International Commerce Centre sits, not on Hong Kong Island, but directly opposite, in the West Kowloon portion of the mainland – where it perches directly on top of Kowloon station.

The Ritz-Carlton’s launch today sees it displace another Far Eastern retreat – the Park Hyatt Shanghai, which ‘only’ lies between the 79th and 93rd floors of the Shanghai World Financial Center, in China’s eastern port-metropolis – as earth’s most elevated hotel.

Of course, while the new Ritz-Carlton can bask in the spotlight of being the world’s highest hotel, the ICC cannot claim to be the world’s highest building to host a hotel.


Do look down: The hotel's four restaurants also offer elevated views


That honour goes to Dubai’s Burj Khalifa - the super-skyscraper that, at 828metres (2,717ft), ranks as the tallest building on the planet.

However, its main accommodation option – the fashion-accented Armani Hotel – climbs no higher than its 39th storey.


source: dailymail

By CHRIS LEADBEATER

Higher and higher: The new hotel sits at the top of Hong Kong's ICC tower (in the foreground)


Many a hotel has used the prospect of a breathtaking view, whether of a pretty stretch of seafront, an urban skyline or towards rolling hills, to boost its appeal to would-be guests – only for said guests to find themselves staring at the kitchen bins or the fire escape.

But anyone checking in to the new Ritz-Carlton in Hong Kong is unlikely to be disappointed by the panorama visible from the window of their suite.

Because, occupying the top 17 floors of the city’s International Commerce Centre (ICC) skyscraper, this five-star, 312-room property is – as of its opening today – the highest hotel in the world.


Room with a view: Windows look out onto Victoria Harbour far below


Anyone wanting to stay here will need a head for heights. The tallest building in Hong Kong, the ICC rears to 484metres (1,588ft) – with the hotel beginning on the 102nd floor, at 425metres (1394ft).

Here, diners can gaze out across the field of neon below from a table at one of three restaurants – or opt for an even loftier perspective on the great Chinese city by taking a lift to the 118th floor, where the signature eatery Ozone awaits.

Those who like the feeling of floating on the lip of a precipice can also test their ability to withstand vertigo by visiting the hotel’s top-floor gym, where an infinity swimming pool offers what may well be an unnerving snapshot of Victoria Harbour, some 16,000ft below. Happily, the in-house spa, slotted two floors below, should soothe frayed spirits.


Different strokes: You may need a stern constitution to swim in the top-floor infinity pool


The hotel is able to offer such good views of the harbour because the International Commerce Centre sits, not on Hong Kong Island, but directly opposite, in the West Kowloon portion of the mainland – where it perches directly on top of Kowloon station.

The Ritz-Carlton’s launch today sees it displace another Far Eastern retreat – the Park Hyatt Shanghai, which ‘only’ lies between the 79th and 93rd floors of the Shanghai World Financial Center, in China’s eastern port-metropolis – as earth’s most elevated hotel.

Of course, while the new Ritz-Carlton can bask in the spotlight of being the world’s highest hotel, the ICC cannot claim to be the world’s highest building to host a hotel.


Do look down: The hotel's four restaurants also offer elevated views


That honour goes to Dubai’s Burj Khalifa - the super-skyscraper that, at 828metres (2,717ft), ranks as the tallest building on the planet.

However, its main accommodation option – the fashion-accented Armani Hotel – climbs no higher than its 39th storey.


source: dailymail

By CHRIS ANDERSON

Relaxed charm: Diners eat al fresco at a busy cafe in one of the city's spacious plazas


It was with this in mind that I went to irresistible Madrid for a long weekend. More than that, I travelled there and back by train, taking my time, looping discursively around and between a number of other splendid towns and cities. And while in the Spanish capital I stayed at the Ritz. To do any two of these three things would have been a magnificent treat. To pull off all of them was heaven.

First, the trip out. An early-ish Eurostar to Paris to begin with, feeling pleasantly frivolous alongside all the business types frowning into their BlackBerries, finding myself eating every atom of the rubbery, airline-style breakfasts served in first class.

Then, at the Gare du Nord and with Europe at my feet, out came my secret weapon: an InterRail Global Pass, allowing unlimited travel around the Continent - from Lisbon in the west, in fact, all the way to the approaches to the Iranian border in the east. (I should mention that there are some small-print conditions to all this, such as reserving long-distance seats in advance, that you need to familiarise yourself with before taking the plunge.) The best thing about it, of course, is that you can plan your whole route yourself, and at your own pace. And that's what I did.

To begin with I skimmed down almost the length of France to my first overnight stop - monumental, cultured Avignon, some 450 miles south of Paris's Gare de Lyon but reached in not much more than two-and-a-half hours on the speed-of-light TGV.

For sightseeing, there's the gigantic Gothic palace that housed a succession of exiled medieval Popes; for corporeal pleasures there's an inviting, characterful old town with proper French shops, restaurants and bars. The next morning I was tempted to linger, but I had always wanted to see Carcassonne - only an inch or two away on the map, as a few of my former news editors used to say - so that's where I headed.

It meant a detour, but it was worth it. The ancient fortified city, romantically restored, exerts a powerful magic. I explored the mazy streets, sampled the astringent local wines and climbed the ramparts. To the west reposed the Pyrenees, calmly glorious in winter sunshine; there were no crowds; I dined regally in what I was told was the city's best restaurant, the Comte Roger, where the subtle perfection of a scallop mousse starter was followed by a knockout, gutbustingly authentic cassoulet.

A longish haul the following day, curling along the marshy coast towards Perpignan and then on the new high-speed link that crosses the border into Spain. This short stretch, which extends as far as Figueres, opened only at the end of last year and makes it comfortably feasible to reach Spain by train from London in not much more than a working day.

I'd been planning to pause in Figueres to visit the Dali museum but momentum propelled me on to Barcelona and, because I had been there before, I pressed on to Zaragoza.

It's a handsome place - bigger than I'd imagined - with impressively stately civic landmarks and a throbbing heart full of noisy tapas bars. Many of these are upscale, and not cheap; the dishes on offer, though, are outstandingly fresh and good. One tapas was composed of anchovy, soft cheese and chocolate shavings - an audacious combination to be sure, but this alien pairing of saltiness and sweetness made me try another one simply to work out whether I loved it or hated it. I loved it. or at least I think I did.

Two more good things about Zaragoza: because I visited it off-season my hotel - the five-star Melia Zaragoza - cost little more than a quarter of the advertised peak-season rate. And the city is so placed that my train ride the next morning to the main event of my trip - Madrid itself - amounted to a pleasant downhill coast of about 90 minutes.

Everything was brilliant in the Spanish capital that Saturday lunchtime - from the welcoming sunshine to the smile of the limo driver who was waiting at the station to whisk me up to the Ritz. The limo service is one of the things Kirker holidays pride themselves on. It's good thinking on their part because one always feels a bit unsure arriving in a foreign capital.

Five minutes later I was in the Ritz - cocooned by its balming elegance, and the imperturbable professionalism of its staff. As with all the best hotels, you sense that behind all this effortless calm is a mighty machine, humming away around the clock. The public rooms are masterpieces of mirrored, belle epoque swishness. My own room, like all the others, was beautiful: airy, tranquil, deep-carpeted, replete with those useful extras like an umbrella and bathrobes and dinky little toiletries.


Sociable city: Friends enjoy a snack and a chat in one of Madrid's many tapas bars


The hotel's position is unsurpassable, lying at the very heart of the grandly spacious centre of the capital (the building is a baroque landmark in its own right) and of the so-called Golden Triangle of world-renowned art museums that boasts the Prado as its senior partner.

The Prado is next door to the Ritz, and is of course essential. The only problem with this vast gallery is that it offers such a rich banquet of treasures that no matter how hard you go at it, you still feel that you've failed to do the paintings justice. The secret is to plan and execute surgical strikes.

The two other elements of the Golden Triangle - the Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the Reina Sofia - are not as well-known as the Prado but are equally unmissable, and you can buy a ticket that gets you into all three.

The Reina Sofia's must-see is Guernica, Picasso's incendiary, wallsized dissection of war and fascism and the horrors that they visit upon an innocent world. It's extraordinarily powerful. I went closer to get a better look; klaxons screamed in tones as outraged as the figures in the picture itself, and guards too remonstrated crossly with me. I reddened. I maintain, however, that the lines on the floor forbidding encroachment towards the picture are not marked terribly clearly.

Time for some fresh air - and Madrid's got lots of it, at least when it's not high summer, because its thoroughfares and squares are roomy and gracious. The government ministries have a certain majesty to them and the shopping districts are as sophisticated as any in Europe.

But, for me, the joy of Madrid lies in the wonderful communality of those areas where the whole city appears to congregate to eat and to drink and, more than anything else, generally and unabashedly to celebrate life. For Madrid is a uniquely sociable place. According to legend there are more bars here per square yard than anywhere else on the Continent; the Calle Alcala alone, it is said, boasts more drinking holes than does the whole of Belgium. The bars themselves are authentic, atmospheric and welcoming. And, while the formal restaurants are pretty good - I had some fizzingly fresh cod in oil and garlic - tapas is king.

To immerse oneself in all this is a night-long thrill - made all the more exotic, and therefore enjoyable, by the way the Spaniards insist on keeping to their own idiosyncratic timetable: they really do lunch until four, and they really don't eat dinner until 9.30 or ten, and they really do then go on and on until the small hours. And nor is it an exercise in getting tanked-up.


Taste of city life: Tapas is king in Madrid and there is a staggering variety on offer


On the Sunday of my visit, the areas around the Plaza Mayor, Santa Ana and La Latina were thronged all day with Madrilenos radiating a sort of serene, civilised buzz. No rowdyism, no silliness (coming from England, one can't help but notice these things). In any case, beer and wine are served in thimble-sized measures, in a way that complements the staggering variety of tapas on offer. People of all ages are invited to this party; everybody joins in, or at least seems to.

But we all have to leave even the best parties sooner or later, and now it was time to have one last stupendous Ritz breakfast and to get into the limo and head for home.

At least, though, I wasn't facing a glum ride to a sterile airport. I was going to the station to head north - first to Vitoria (historic, pleasant, a bit provincial after Madrid) and then to San Sebastian. My arrival here coincided with the city's annual saint's day: its superb streets and central square, and its narrow old town bursting with tapas bars, were flooded with townsfolk, many of them banging on drums. In fact, the place went crackers.

Then my last stop, and the only dud one on the whole trip: Biarritz, which I found to be gratuitously expensive, antiseptic, and more than a bit stuck-up. Everywhere else I had gone I had felt positively grateful to be there in winter. Freed from tourists, the cities had seemed both more approachable and more themselves. Not so Biarritz. But perhaps I was getting a bit tired by now.

Still, there was plenty of time to daydream on the trip back to Paris. And then, after a quick stroll around Montparnasse, it was on to the evening Eurostar and home - where life seemed no longer oppressive, nor routine, at all.


Getting there

InterRail Global Passes start from £230 for an adult for a 'five travel days in ten days' pass or £327 for a 'ten in 22 days' pass. Return fares on Eurostar from London to Paris start at £69. Some high-speed trains and overnight services will require seat reservations in addition to the InterRail pass. Call 0844 848 4070 or visit www.raileurope.co.uk.

Kirker Holidays (020 7593 2283, www.kirkerholidays.com) offers three nights at the Ritz Madrid from £1,398 per person, including return Eurostar to Paris and 'Preferente' class sleeper to Madrid with transfers, B&B and a 48-hour Cultura Card giving access to museums and palaces. A three-night break with flights costs from £878.


source: dailymail